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Posts for September 30th 2010

September 30, 2010

Zac Posen Makes His Paris Debut...And Is Accused Of Trying Too Hard :(

Zac Posen created a slight upset in the New York calendar when he decided to reserve our fair land for the showing of only his lower-priced Z Spoke line and take his collection show to Paris. Well, that finally walked today, and critics don't seem to believe the move did him any good.

Apparently, Yohji Yamamoto, who sat front-row at Posen's show, suggested the young New Yorker bring his collection to Paris. Posen is an outspoken admirer of couture, and aimed to employ those sorts of techniques in the spring 2011 line. He even described it as "couture for day" — but critics aren't convinced.

Christina Binkley of The Wall Street Journal thought the collection felt "unfortunate" at times and "tried too hard":

Perhaps it was the juxtaposition with the highly ornate ballroom at Paris’s Westin hotel, or maybe it was the difficult comparison with the high-concept designers in Paris, but the collection tried too hard to grab attention with boudoir games.

Costumey pink feathers streamed from transparent black negligees. Tight ruching up the back of skirts added an unfortunate sort of evening allure.

There were some apparent fit problems that may have stemmed from the complications of designing a collection in New York while showing it in Paris.

WWD just came out and said the move to Paris did him "no favors":

Posen did himself no favors by choosing as his venue the spectacular, 19th-century gilded ballroom of the Westin Hotel, formerly the InterContinental, and still synonymous with the couture shows of the late Yves Saint Laurent. This room, and this city, it must be said, expects to see better clothes than what Posen paraded.

Suzy Menkes fails to see the daytime appeal in any of it:

Even the evening gowns were dressy by any standards.

Daytime? Perhaps Mr. Posen thought he had sorted that with the debut of his second Z-Spoke collection in New York. Or maybe, if you are thinking showgirls, the outfit for a noontime wake-up coffee would be a body-skimming mesh jumpsuit, perhaps with a curvy little jacket. And feathers.

It reminded the Associated Press of a strip club:

The sultry palette of blood orange, coral and rich velvety reds recalled the mise-en-scene at Paris' classy strip clubs, like the legendary Lido or the Crazy Horse.

It was a bold Paris debut for Posen, a one-time critical darling whose label has hit hard financial times of late.

Still, initial reaction to the show — which included a heavy-hitting lineup of top models like Carmen Kass and Isabelle Fontana — appeared mixed. Applause was tepid, and the A-list guests made a beeline for the exit as soon as the lights went up.

No one seems to be softening their true feelings — and that is a rare thing in fashion reporting.


September 30, 2010

Did Rachel and Brad Split over the NYT Style Story!??

In case you haven’t heard the news by now, Rachel Zoe and Brad Goreski are parting ways. And while I'm certainly sad, I'm even sadder about a particular rumor flying around about the impetus behind the break-up.

(And yes, when your work relationship involves pre-dawn meetings in bed, you call it a break-up.)

According to PopEater, what Zoe and Goreski are calling an “amicable” split, was actually an “ugly”, drama-filled, power struggle, the catalyst of which was the New York Times Sunday Styles story on Goreski’s impact on men’s fashion.

PopEater’s Rob Shuter writes:

Rumors that the fashion power pair were in trouble started circulating a few weeks during New York fashion week where Brad seemed to be welcomed more than Rachel.

“Fashion week was definitely the turning point,” a friend of Rachel’s tells me. “Brad was sitting on the front row of every show and getting invited to as may events as his boss. However the final straw was when Brad appeared on the cover of The New York Times style section. Rachel hit the roof and reminded him he was her assistant and it was called ‘The Rachel Zoe’ show not the Brad Goreski show. That was the moment that the two of them were over.”

Emphasis ours. Not to get all Gossip Cop on you, but I'm calling B.S. While yes, we all saw Brad at plenty of shows this season, we also saw him sitting second or even third row — and happily at that! And as far as I can tell, Brad has his own friends in the industry — the guys at DSquared2 come to mind — and has been attending events long before his association with Zoe began. (Um, Amber Valetta, anyone?)

And finally, we’ve all seen what a bad split from Rachel Zoe, Inc. looks like, and if their tweets from yesterday are any indication, this wasn’t one.


September 30, 2010

Miranda Kerr Graces The Runway....5 months Preggo!


          

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